Cars are very much susceptible to rust. They’re brought out to all types of weather, be it rainy, sunny, snowy, or humid. And because moisture is an imminent part in the atmosphere, your car is sure to develop rust as time passes by. Rust can be kept at the bay only if the car is cleaned and waxed on a regular basis. What stimulates the erosion of rust? The key factor would be scratches or chips on the paint… any common breaks on the paint coating allow moisture to get in and thus results in rust. How long you have owned the vehicle matters as well; the older it is the more susceptible to rust it becomes. Cars aren’t just carefully selected and bought out of need and necessity, they’re also status symbols. Hence of what purpose are the agonies that you bear on your appearance if the vehicle you drive is a running corroded pile of metal? Rust on cars sooner or later will spread; even before you notice it, your car would be devoured by it. So it’s always better to begin when there is only minor rusting happening. Let’s see how to get rid of rust on a car in the upcoming sections.
Ways to Get Rid of Rust on a Car
Below are some of the ways to get rid of rust on a car:
- Chemical removing
- Physical removing
- Sealing or encapsulating it
- Converting it
Don’t want to put in the effort needed in wire brushing, or hand sanding the rust? You can go with chemical removing instead, in the form of acid. There are many products available on the market that has some sort of acid (usually Phosphoric Acid) and can be applied on the rust. Care ought to be taken while using these acid rust removers since they’re mild acids and can cause harm to human skin. The benefit of utilizing chemicals is that there’s much less manual effort, and the liquid can penetrate into crevices and cracks which a sandpaper or wore brush can’t.
Bring out the sandpaper, wire brushes and grinders! Physical removing of rust requires using something tougher than the rust you need to remove and utilizing it to eliminate that layer of iron oxide. Using wire brush to wipe it off requires a lot of time, sandpaper is best and when using an air tool or power tool it’s much faster. Grinders are best if you have a pile of rust on your car where there’s no risk of damaging the base steel. Using a sandblaster is also an alternative and it’s dirty and often expensive, it does a good job of getting into all the crannies and nooks.
All physical ways of rust elimination will yield heat as a byproduct. Depending on the thickness of the metal below the rust, this may distort the panel you’re working on. Care is required to decrease heat progress.
Sealing or Encapsulating
Take out one component of the electro-chemical reaction and rusting cannot take place. If you can prevent oxygen from reaching the base metal you can stop rusting. If the rust you’re handling is not affecting the whole structure of the part and you don’t concern what the final outcome looks like, you can just encapsulate the rust and get on your way. Some rust sealers can be covered on the top and even mixed with body filler and can be sanded for a smooth finish but if you’re going this far, you ought to consider eliminating the rust.
Converting the Rust
Same as sealing, rust converters conceal the base metal from oxygen with the help of a layer of rust itself. The rust is chemically changed into a tough durable layer which doesn’t let the atmospheric oxygen in to further react with the base metal. The benefits of using this technique are that the rust converter is generally water soluble and highly safe when compared to acids.
Prime and Paint
Once when you’re completely done with the surface preparation, start taping the area off. I’d suggest using the blue painter’s tape that’s available at most home improvement stores, since it doesn’t leave back a sticky residue when removed. Start with a top quality vehicle body primer. The point is to apply very thin coats rather than applying a single thick coat. Paint gains its strength when applied as several thin coats. Apply three thin layers of primer, leaving about 10 minutes of gap between every coat. After applying the third coat, let it dry overnight so the primer can completely dry.
Once when the primer is dried completely, hand sand the area softly using a piece of 150 grit paper. You’re not trying to take off any paint, but are just ensuring that the painted surface is smooth. Be sure to pull down any dust that may have piled up in your primer coats during the process of drying.
The paint, same as the primer, ought to be applied in very thin coats. You should typically use three coats, buy you may notice that four or more coats gives it a great looking finish. If you’re able to match the color precisely, you may have to use more paint so the fixed area blends smoothly. If you’re not able to make an exact color match, then a couple of coats will be enough, since you don’t want the area to stick out visually. While with the primer, allow it to dry between every coat – I’d recommend at least 2 hours between each coat. The instructions seen on the label of the product can also give you a better recommendation for dry time.
Later on the final coat of paint has took the time to dry overnight, give the whole car a nice wash and wax to help blend with the fixed area into the remaining of the finish. Now the time has come to step back and cherish your neat work. You fixed your own car rust issue and, as far as you already had a grinder, you didn’t spend much more than 25 USD.